It is advisable to always check the replacement battery against the existing one to ensure that size, hold down, terminal configuration, cranking capacity and bonnet clearance are suitable for the application.

Ensure all accessories are switched off in the vehicle.

Remove the negative (-) terminal first.

Remove the positive (+) terminal and battery hold down.

Inspect the battery tray for corrosion. If necessary clean using baking soda (the baking soda neutralises the acid) and water, then rinse with clean water.

Place the new battery in the tray and ensure it is level.

It is good practice to clean the inside of the terminal with a wire brush and remove any other corrosion.

Replace the battery hold down and ensure the battery is secure.

Replace the positive terminal and tighten.

Replace the negative terminal and tighten. The negative terminal should always be replaced last.

Never over tighten or hammer terminal onto the battery as this can damage the posts.

Some form of corrosion protection over the terminals is a good idea, we use a spray designed to reduce corrosion, but grease or petroleum jelly also works fine.

As a member of the PBL (Pacific batteries pte limited) we are responsible for the collection of scrap batteries, so you can drop your batteries off to us and we have lead acid battery recycle plant to protect the Environment. Never put them in with your household waste.

Jump starting can cause serious injury, if you are unsure of what you are doing call roadside assistance of someone experienced for help.

Read your owner’s manual, some car manufacturers don’t allow jump starting, also sometimes the battery is not under the bonnet but there will usually be jump start terminals under the bonnet.

1. Turn the ignition in both cars to “off”

2. Connect the red (positive) cable to the dead cars positive battery post.

3. Connect the other end of the red (positive) cable to the live cars positive battery post.

4. Connect one end of the black (negative) cable to the live cars negative battery post.

5. Locate an unpainted metal part of the dead cars engine. The engine manifold is a good position. Connect the unused end of the black (negative) cable to this location.

6. Start the good cars engine.

7. Start the dead cars engine. If it doesn’t crank wait for 2-3 minutes and try again.

8. If it still doesn’t crank check all connections.

9. As soon as the dead car starts you can disconnect the cables, you should disconnect in the reverse order.

This is a difficult one to answer because it depends on numerous factors. The main factors are how often the vehicle is being used, how well it is charged, how well it is maintained, high temperatures and the application. Battery life has become shorter as energy requirements in modern vehicles have increased.

A battery prefers to be used regularly or regularly charged. Many modern vehicles have a constant drain even when the ignition is off which will flatten the battery and shorten the life if the vehicle is not being used regularly. Vehicles now days have a lot more electrical accessories fitted which puts added strain on the battery.

Another factor that is becoming more important is locking your car. Modern vehicles, especially luxury cars have many computers and accessories still running when the key is removed, they don’t go to “sleep” until the car is locked. So even if you car is in a locked garage it is good practice to lock your car to improve battery life.

Our marine batteries are designed to run small electrical loads and are “hybrid” batteries. They also have extra resistance to vibration and a dual terminal for adding extra accessories.

There are basically two types of lead acid batteries Starter (engine cranking) and Deep Cycle (Caravans, dual batteries). The starter battery is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy so generally has more plates in order to have a larger surface area that provides a high electric current for a short period of time. The plates are thinner and have different material composition.

The deep cycle battery has less instant energy but greater long term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles.

We do not recommend using starter batteries for deep cycle applications because the plates are more prone to warping and shedding active material, this will reduce the life of the battery or possibly have a catastrophic failure i.e. a sudden death due to a shorted cell.

You can also get “hybrid” batteries which fall between starting and deep cycle batteries.

Yes you can, but it is not recommended to put a deep cycle in a predominantly starting application and an allowance should be made for their lower cranking amps. Deep cycle batteries don’t have the burst of energy like a starter battery, so for the same size battery they will not provide as many cranking amps as a regular starter battery.

There can be many reasons why a battery has gone flat - here are the most common causes:

· Undercharging - This is the most common cause of a flat battery. Modern vehicle charging systems are designed to reduce CO2 emissions and improve fuel economy by increasing battery usage, while at the same time not providing sufficient charge to fully recharge the battery. A flat battery may also be a result of a fault in the vehicle's charging system.

· Human Error - None of us are perfect. Leaving the headlights or interior lights on, or not closing the boot properly can all potentially flatten a vehicle's battery overnight.

· Parasitic drain - This is caused by components in the vehicle which continue to operate after the engine has been turned off. The most common offenders are dashcams, alarm systems, or electronic rust prevention systems. These items can gradually wear a battery down over time.

· Driving habits - If a vehicle is driven on a lot of small trips, the battery may not receive enough charge to recover the energy lost cranking the engine at the start of the journey. Lead-acid batteries also lose power gradually over time when not in use, so batteries in vehicles which are rarely driven will eventually end up going flat.

· Old battery - Old batteries are simply not as good at holding their charge - so if a vehicle consistently won't start it is possible that the battery has reached the end of it's life.

If you've recently experienced a flat battery, it is important to have an expert investigate whether any problems exist with the vehicle's charging system before a new battery is fitted.

Simply going for a drive will not provide enough charge to recharge a flat battery. Vehicle charging systems are designed to provide a 'surface charge' which is sufficient to maintain a healthy battery, but nowhere near enough to bring a flat battery back from the dead.

Almost all batteries have a natural tendency to go flat over time, especially when they're not in use. If you've got an old mobile phone stored in a draw at home, you'll notice it'll probably be flat the next time to try to turn it on - and it's the same story with the battery in your vehicle.

Lead-acid batteries lose charge over time, and this problem is often made worse by the parasitic drain of electrical devices within the vehicle which continue to operate even whilst parked. For vehicles which are rarely driven, a battery maintainer or trickle charger should be used to prevent the battery from self-discharging and going flat.

Most of today's vehicles have 'smart charging' profiles which automatically disengage the charging system and stop charging the battery when it is near full capacity. Therefore, a vehicle fitted with a heavily discharged battery will place more load on the engine as the alternator remains engaged to recharge the battery. This will typically result in increased fuel usage.

Batteries are typically rated using CCA - which is a test of how much current a fully charged battery can deliver for 30 seconds at a temperature of -18°C. Generally, the electrical system in your vehicle is designed to pull a fixed amount of current for each of the tasks it needs to perform - so batteries with a higher CCA will not start your vehicle faster or make it perform better.

The CCA rating of a battery will gradually reduce with time, so batteries with higher CCA ratings do have the potential to last longer. However, other factors come into play here - including how well the battery has been built, the strength and thicknesses of the internal lead plates, and how much electrolyte it contains.

The below figure may be reduced or extended depending on a number of factors, including:

· Whether the battery has been installed correctly.

· If the battery chosen is suitable for the vehicle and driving application.

· The climate in which the vehicle is driven.

· The voltage which the battery is usually kept at.

· Whether the vehicle has high or low parasitic drain when not in use.

· How often the vehicle is used, and the length of the journeys.

· Whether the battery and the vehicle itself have both been well maintained.

Based on these factors, batteries fitted to vehicles which are used in hot climates, driven on short journeys, and rarely maintained would be expected to have a shorter life. Conversely, vehicles which are used in milder climates, driven further, and receive regular maintenance would typically have a longer life.

There are a few easy things you can do to get the absolute maximum amount of life out of your battery. As a rule, the following items should be checked on a monthly or bi-monthly basis:

· Ensure the top of the battery is clean, and that the terminals are free of corrosion.

· If your battery is below 12.5 volts, recharge immediately using a suitable smart battery charger.

· For maintainable batteries, remove the plugs and ensure that the electrolyte is covering the battery plates. Top up with distilled water if required. For maintenance free types, check the water indicator.

· We recommend charging batteries with an appropriate battery charger every 3 months to maintain peak performance.

Maintenance free batteries are designed to satisfy the 'fit and forget' mentality of today's motorists - providing reliable starting power without the need to keep an eye on electrolyte levels.

No. Tap water contains minerals which will accelerate corrosion - reducing the performance and life of the battery. Always use distilled or demineralised water to top up maintainable batteries.

The simple answer is no. Car batteries are designed to provide short, sharp bursts of power to start an engine, followed by a full recharge via the vehicle's charging system.

Driving a vehicle fitted with an unsecured battery is not recommended. Unsecured batteries can be damaged by impacting on other parts of the engine, and you also run the risk of it 'shorting out' on the underside of the bonnet - potentially starting a fire or causing the battery to explode.

Unsecured batteries also tend to have a reduced lifespan - due to increased vibration damage.

This is not recommended. Most vehicles with Stop-Start technology have active energy management systems which require the replacement battery to be correctly configured to the vehicle following installation. Without proper configuration, the vehicle may begin charging the new battery using parameters determined by years of use on the old battery. This could result in:

· Undercharging or overcharging of the battery resulting in premature failure

· Potential damage to the vehicles electrical system

· Loss of Idle Stop Start system functionality

· Increased CO2 emissions & fuel consumption

· Possible loss of non-critical vehicle functions

The small threaded terminals on your battery should not be used for engine starting purposes and we strongly advise against doing this. Instead, the engine ignition should be run off the battery's main terminals, with low current draw accessories such as fish finders or GPS units run off the threaded terminals. In rare instances, running a sustained high current draw (such as cranking an engine repeatedly and for extended periods of time) through the small threaded terminals could possibly damage your battery. This is due to the smaller terminals having a higher resistance when compared to the main terminals, with more heat being generated under high loads as a result.

Batteries are only dangerous if handled incorrectly and proper maintenance is not followed.

The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. We have seen instances of batteries blowing up and drenching everything in sulphuric acid and sending jagged pieces of the poly propylene case up to 20 metres away. It only takes a small spark, flame or burning cigarette to set off a dangerous explosion. Therefore ignition sources must be kept well away at all times.

Extreme caution must be taken to avoid spilling or splashing electrolyte (battery acid) as it can destroy clothing and burn the skin. Care should also be taken when lifting and carrying batteries due, if excessive pressure is placed on the end walls of the battery it can cause electrolyte to seep (or even squirt) through the vents, this is usually found in cheaper imported batteries that use thinner casings and not reinforced.

It is highly recommended to wear safety goggles and even a face shield when working near batteries. Never lean over the battery during charging, testing or “jump starting” operations. If acid does get into your eyes you must flush out with water immediately and continue to flush with water for at least 5 minutes.

Take care to ensure tools or other metallic objects do not fall across the terminal or any adjacent metallic part of the vehicle.

When doing electrical work on vehicles it is best to disconnect the ground (earth) cable. Just remember that you are messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and electrical current.

Batteries are also very heavy, ensure correct lifting procedures are used when moving or installing batteries.

Cold cranking amperes (CCA) is an international standard for measuring the performance of a battery. CCA measures the cranking capacity of a battery at a temperature of -18C (0F). To get technical the rating is defined as the number of amperes a lead-acid battery at -18C can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery).

Rated in minutes it is the length of time a new fully charged battery at 27C will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts.

An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. If a battery is rated at 100AH it should deliver 5 amps per hour for 20 hours. Peukert’s Law expresses the fact that the capacity available from a battery varies according to how rapidly it is discharged. A battery discharged at high rate will give fewer amperes than one discharged slower

A battery is like a piggy bank, if you keep taking out and putting nothing back you soon have nothing. The voltage should only be read when the engine is off and no loads are connected, the battery has to rest for at least 12 hours to remove the surface charge (or turning on your high beam for about 1 minute will remove the surface charge).

State of Charge Battery Voltage Specific Gravity

100% 12.65 1.265

75% 12.45 1.225

50% 12.25 1.190

25% 12.05 1.155

0% 11.90 1.120